If you pull the cap off and move the crank to 20* BTDC on cylinder 1, the rotor should point directly to plug 1 on the cap. I have the move the distributor almost all the way advanced, which in turn distances the rotor from the dizzy cap pins, which causes corrosion and a weaker spark. I think these might have something to do with the timing being pulled (or even code 105 for EGR solenoid). I dont have any sensors, and I think the VSS, nuetral position switch.
This makes me believe there are more things that affect timing than the KS which is bypassed at the ECU. After the engine is warm, the timing slowly falls to around 15*.
During warm up (nismo t-stat) the timing is 20* with the dizzy is centered like in the FSM picture. I have mine completely centered and aligned. It needs to be just like the picture in the FSM. noticed its very responsive when timing is closer to top dead center (say 10 or 15 degrees). just playing with the throttle to feel a different response. Now when i was setting the timing i was at 10 degrees and mightve went over 20 by 5 degrees but not driving on it. i rebuilt a stock ka couple of months ago set the timing at 20 and got broken ring lands. Vise versa for small engines - so if you ever look at a 1.6L's ignition map it might not actually need more timingīy advancing too much, the fuel mixture will be fully ignited/combusted too soon which causes super-high cylinder pressure (while the piston is still traveling up - compression stroke) and can lead broken ringlands and/or a melted piston from extreme temperatures. So according to this, the larger the piston diameter the more advanced timing you'll need. By advancing the spark you're compensating for this delay - so by the time the piston passes TDC it will be fully ignited and the piston will be forced downward on the combustion stroke. The fuel mixture has to ignite and the combustion travels across the face of the piston. So when car is running light should be flashing at the 20 mark (known as base) got iĪirman wrote:^ This. This link is for a timing chain rattle fix, but they also talk about the timing towards the end:įeel free to correct me if I'm wrong on any of this everyone So I would now be 5 degrees advanced from my "base" and 25 degrees away from TDC. So to advance timing 5 more degrees I'd just start from my "base" (20 degrees advanced) and advance 5 more degrees. My base is 20 degrees advanced from TDC (TDC is 0 degrees). When making adjustments to the KA24de timing, this advanced 20 degrees from TDC becomes the "base" timing.Įxample: I'm feeling adventurous and want to advance timing 5 degrees from base.
KA24de "stock" timing is 20 degrees advanced from TDC. Cleantune wrote:Top dead center (TDC) for cylinder #1 should be 0 degrees the rotor in the distributer should also be exactly on the pin for cylinder#1 spark.
0 kommentar(er)
